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Planting bulbs

Over the past years, I have dabbled with all sorts of bulbs. I really enjoy the ease in planting them but don’t really like having to dig bulbs up each year. So, for the most part, I plant quite a few in pots. This works pretty well because all I need to do is to bring the flower pot inside. My son was given an elephant ear bulb, and this was our first attempt at growing these. It was a massive plant, and we are looking forward to planting two more this year. These we will not plant in a flower pot just because of size.

Calla lilies or callas (Zantedeschia species) are not true lilies. They are related to jack-in-the-pulpit and caladium. Unlike jack-in-the-pulpit, they are not hardy in Minnesota. The tuber-like rhizomes must be dug up and stored inside over the winter.

Callas have a broad, trumpet-shaped flower called a spathe that wraps around the yellow finger-like spadix. The spathe is actually a modified leaf and may be white, yellow, or pink/rose/purple. The spadix holds the tiny, true flowers. Its leaves are arrowhead-shaped and solid green or green with silver or white flecks. Zantedeschia aethiopica, the white calla, is native to Africa where it is considered a weed. Its spathe can be up to 10 inches long, but is usually 4 to 6 inches long.

Callas may be grown as houseplants, in a sunny location, but for the best results, plant callas outside and enjoy them indoors as cut flowers. They should bloom mid to late summer for about a month. Callas thrive in a deep, moist, rich soil in full sun. They will grow in part shade, but will not bloom as well. White callas will grow in boggy or alkaline soils. After frost has killed the foliage, dig up the rhizomes and store them in a peatmoss, vermiculite, or perlite. Leave the top of the bag open or punch holes in it for air exchange.

Canna lilies are another “spring bulb” that we can start ahead of the growing season. Well, we are just getting going on the growing season but you can still get a jump on those bulbs that take forever. Canna lilies or cannas (Canna x generalis) are native to tropical and subtropical areas. They are not hardy in Minnesota. Like callas, their rhizomes must be dug up in the fall after frost has blackened the foliage. Cannas grow 1-1/2 to 5 feet or more, depending on variety. Their large, glossy green leaves are 6 to 12 inches wide. Their blossoms are clustered at the top of flower spikes which can be up to one foot long. Blossom size varies with the species planted. Cannas are available in red, rose/pink, yellow, red with yellow, and dark red with bronze foliage.

Cannas may be started indoors by planting them three to four inches deep in pots, then transplanting them outside. They will also bloom well if planted directly into the garden as soon as the soil has warmed and danger of frost has passed. Plant the rhizomes 3-4 inches deep and 1-1/2 to 3 feet apart. Cannas grow best in full sun and hot weather, providing they have adequate moisture and a soil high in organic matter. They will bloom in a warm site that gets part day sun, such as along a house wall. They bloom mid-summer to frost.

In the fall, dig up the rhizomes, cut the stems back to 2-3 inches, and let them dry. Leave them in a box in a cool part of the house where they will not freeze, such as a basement where the temperatures range between 40-50 degrees.

The gladiolus is an easy-to-grow flower, especially valued for use in floral arrangements. Gladioli produce tall spikes of large blossoms, in a rainbow of colors. Only clear, true blue is missing; white, pink, red, purple, yellow, orange, salmon, and even green gladioli are available, along with many bi-colors.

“Glads” grow from corms (bulb-like structures) that are not winter-hardy in Minnesota. They must either be dug in September and stored until planting time the following May, or replaced annually. Some gladiolus experts recommend treating them as annuals because you are more likely to get large, healthy blooms each year that way, and you don’t have to fuss with storing them. Start planting in mid-May, then again every two weeks through mid-June. This schedule will keep the flowers coming from July through August. The final strategy to extend bloom time would be to plant different sized corms. Larger corms bloom somewhat earlier than smaller corms of the same variety.

Dig gladiolus corms once the foliage has been killed by frost. Shake off excess soil and sort the corms by cultivar. Cut the stem off just above each corm. “Cure” corms for about three weeks in a warm, dry, airy place. At this point, the corms you planted in spring will easily break off the bottoms of the new corms that developed over the summer growing season. Discard the old, spent corms and save the new ones. Leave their husks intact, and treat them for insects if they appear infested. Place the new corms in paper bags, cloth sacks, or nylon pantyhose legs. Store them in a well-ventilated place that’s dark, dry, and cool. Ideal storage temperatures range from 35° to 45° F; the cooler the better, as long as they are not allowed to freeze. For more about gardening, you can reach me at s.dejaeghere@me.com or to reach any of the local Master Gardeners, call the Lyon County Extension service at 507-532-8219.

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